Visit Date: May 4, 2015
After the canyon drive, we will head to Merzouga in the desert.
Todra Valley » drive before Merzouga.
The southern area of the Atlas Mountains is basically a very hot place because it is close to the desert area, but it is located at the entrance to the Todra Valley and is probably a little higher in altitude, so it was very cool last night. So I was able to sleep without a problem though the hotel did not have air conditioning.
Breakfast that day was served outside on the terrace.
そしてチェックアウト。この日はにすぐ先にある[highlight]「トドラ渓谷][/highlight]を少しドライブしてからサハラ砂漠の街メルズーガを目指します。10分程北に向かうとこのような景色が広がってきました。
By the way, this canyon is famous for rock climbers. Some tourists were already climbing in the morning under the guidance of a local instructor. There was a Japanese woman, too.
We want to drive quickly. We’re going to go a little further in. Compared to the Dades Valley where we went yesterday, we didn’t feel like driving along the side of the cliffs as much as the Dades, but the color of the rocks was more vivid here in Todra, and the road was a little better maintained. I guess it is because there are more tourists in the valley here.
However, like the Dades, this canyon was not well maintained after a while, so we decided to turn back at the right time.
The Merzouga Goes for it!
After less than an hour’s drive through the Dola Valley, we return to Tinjil and head further east on the familiar N10. On the way, we took the R702 to the town of Erfoud, and from there we took the N13 to Merzouga. On the way, we had to stop at the town of Tinjil due to stomach problems, but the drive was generally smooth. As we headed toward Merzouga, the scenery on the right side of the road, to the south, became even more desolate. The desert must be just around the corner.
無事通過点の街エルフードに到着し、ここからはN13号線に入り南下します。リッサニ（Rissani）という街でちょっと勘違いして右往左往しましたが、途中でその勘違いに気づき、無事N13号線に再度合流出来ました。
ところでこのN13号線ができたのは今から10年程前。それまではきちんと舗装された道がなかったため、観光客はエルフードから4WDでメルズーガへと向かいそこからサハラ砂漠に向かったそうです。そして、このN13号線ができてからは、メルズーガやその隣のハシラビット（Hassilabied）にたくさんの宿泊施設やサハラ砂漠ツアーの発着地ができたとのことです。
我々が今日お世話になるホテルは、ハシラビットにあります。ホテルを取っていますが、オプション料を払ってサハラ砂漠にテント泊するつもりです。ここもAirbnbで予約しました。マラケシュ以来、この旅2回目のAirbnb。前日の夜にメールでおおよその到着時間を連絡済みで、当日になって先方から返信がありました。Afriquiaというガソリンスタンドの手前にある道を左に曲がり、Hassilabiedへ入り、そこの中央広場で待っているという連絡を受けていましたので、とりあえず向かってみることにしました。
As we came to the outskirts of Rissani, more and more desert-like scenery spread out in front of us. There are no buildings at all anymore, just a straight road that goes on and on.
And after about 20 minutes, I saw it, a gas station called Afliquia. But there is no road in front of it?
But if you look closely, you can see the ruts of a car. I decided to go there anyway. It seemed to be a road there (laugh). And after about 5 minutes, we went to the square designated as the meeting place. I opened the window and looked around, but I couldn’t find anyone who looked like a host right away. In the meantime, I was approached by a few touts, but I’m used to them by now, so I tell them clearly that I have a reservation and turn them away.
While I was doing this, a person who seemed to be my host finally arrived. He knew my name, and I told him my host’s name too, and apparently this person turned out to be my real host. I told him that I would leave Tinjil at 11:00 and arrive at Lissani around 13:00, but he wandered around Lissani and delayed my arrival for another hour, so he made me wait for a long time in the heat. I am sorry….
Our host’s name is Hassan, and he led us first to his hotel in Hasilabit.
First of all, we were guided to the lobby and welcomed with mint tea. This is already a standard welcome ceremony. The mint tea here is made by pouring a lot of mint leaves into unfermented Chinese tea, and then adding a lot of sugar sticks. Pouring it from a high place and making it frothy is also a unique custom.
He asked me if I wanted to stay here tonight or in a tent in the desert, and I told him I wanted to stay in the desert. Then he told me that it was hot and we would leave in the evening, so I should relax here until then.
また、ホテルの部屋は今日泊まらなくてもつかってよいから、もしシャワーを浴びたいならば自由に使ってよいと言われました。さらに明日テントから帰ってきてからもこの部屋のシャワーを使っても良いとのことでしたので、とっても助かります。部屋の入口がこちら。
So I took a shower first, and waited for the evening while cooling down in the hotel lobby. In the meantime, we talked with the hotel manager, Hassan, and his brother (apparently). Hassan used to work in a hotel in the city, but after working there for a few years, he came back to this area and started to run this hotel and desert tours. That was three years ago, I heard. So to say, it was an entrepreneurial venture. After all, the opening of the N13 highway must have had a big impact on the number of tourists who came to visit the area.
このハッサンのホテルには、日本人や韓国人といった東洋人も多く訪ねてきたことがあるようでして、その様子を彼のFacebook、そしてトリップアドバイザーのページを見せながら説明してくれました。どうやら彼は旅行関係のネットサービスに幅広く手を出しているようです。僕はAirbnb経由でコンタクトを取りましたが、彼によると[highlight]予約のほとんどはトリップアドバイザーからのアクセスから来る[/highlight]ということです。ネットを使っての宣伝は、むしろモロッコのような新興国の方が、既存のしがらみもなくかえって馴染みやすいのかもしれませんね。
While we were talking about it, it was evening before we knew it. Then, a camel appeared out of nowhere. After arranging our gear and luggage for an overnight stay in the desert, we climbed onto the camels. Actually, it was my first time to ride a camel. When I stood up, I was a little surprised because it went to the top at once more than I thought, but it seems to be no problem if you get used to it.
多少手すりの幅が小さくて手で支えづらかったですが、よく指摘されていたおしりが痛くなるような気配はしませんでした。そしてハシラビットの街を離れゆっくりと砂漠へと向かいます。(続く)
